Sweet and earthy, fresh and woody, delicate and enticing, there is one subtle scent that distinguishes Corsican bush walks from any other in the Mediterranean, it is that of the helichrysum, a.k.a. “immortelle”, or “everlasting” plant. This amazing flower with therapeutic benefits is a delight to all senses, visual, auditory, olfactory and tactile. Indeed, scattered low in golden patches, not only does it enhance the landscape with precious gilding, but it crumbles in the hand like crumpled tissue paper, meanwhile spreading in the air its unique and complex aroma.

I was stoked to be able to replenish my stock of its essential oil at the Hotel Monte d’Oro where we stopped for a night to bathe at the “Cascade des Anglais” the first day and get our fix of adrenaline in the treetops of its exceptional adventure park the next.

I can say hand on heart that if we visited destinations with overrated reputations before, this isn’t the case for Corsica – far from it. For there is no eulogy glorious enough to bear witness to the sublimity of Corsica’s landscapes and the powerful verve of its victorious nature. There, mineral, plants and animals of every size, shape and color, populate the different regions, from the tiny amber frog to the huge grey pachyderm-looking rock or skinny, tall and majestic Laricci pine trees we happened to climb, jump and fly from at the adventure park (and how I longed to have my fellow tree climbing club buddies with me to experience the thrill!).

Even in August, at the height of the summer tourist season, the most accessible sites are, of course, crowded and of little interest then, but it’s enough to get off the beaten track or get up early to find unspoilt natural sites of stunning character. I am still in awe of the diversity of its offering and the deep sense of belonging and reconnecting I felt when exploring this island with the well-deserved nickname of “Ile de Beaute” (Beauty Island).

Definite highlights of our stay include waiting for the fog to lift at the Punta di a Vacca Morta one morning, taking a video interview in a ruined building in l’Ospedale later that day, watching the other boats struggle to moore with the tricky hangers in Catena cove, the walk along the Campu Rumanilu overlooking the sea on Bonifacio white cliffs, the barefoot hike up the sharp scenic trail of Roccapina cape (where we’d been warned several times by passers-by we would definitely need shoes – which were in our bags, but managed to reach the summit without ), Zeph’s Tarzan jump in the adventure park (twice), jumping off the tall rock in Calvi, the crystalline water of Cascade des Anglais, and most anchorages where fish gathered around us as soon as we would drop anchor, my salsa nights (of course), and witnessing Zephyr and Azur’s interest in French history while visiting the Musee Fesch in Ajaccio, and (re)discovering Zeph’s encyclopaedic knowledge of Greek and Roman mythology as he could recognise the scenes of most paintings just by looking at them, despite us not giving him any art education whatsoever.

He’s, by the way, already requested Corsica featured as our next summer holiday destination and the whole family is behind him on that one, and I more than anyone else, carrying the extreme frustration to have missed out on Corsican polyphonies, screwing up on the venue once (I had the right date, the right cathedral, but the wrong town), and chased by the weather all the other times, leaving Calvi one day before the last concert of the summer. We’re definitely due for another visit!