Cousinhood in Rhodes & Symi

To welcome Thomas’ goddaughter, Lou-Anne, aboard Obelix, we had chosen to gravitate around Rhodes, the biggest of the Dodecanese islands, foreseeing a varied playground well suited for a week’s off-season holiday. Between its gorgeous bays, the lovely port of Mandraki, the medieval streets of its old town, and ancient remains of stadium, temple and theatre, the popular Elli beach and the possibility to sail to next-door island Symi, we were not disappointed.

The choice of anchorage to welcome Lou-Anne and her chaperon Mamidou from Rhodes Airport gave us some grey hair but we eventually elected Ladiko Bay, opposite the very popular Anthony Quinn Bay, a choice that delighted both us and our guests. Visited mainly by day-trippers who deserted the place by mid-afternoon (with only a couple of hotels nearby and the last bus departing Ladiko at 3pm), we had the stunning cove all to ourselves for three nights in a row and shared it with one other yacht for another two.

From there we could rent a car for provisioning and airport pick-up, hike up the hill to soak in the 180-degree view on Rhodes east coast, stop for a close encounter with a dozen squawking peacocks and a stick insect, indulge a hot stone massage by Azur in Anthony Quinn’s Bay, and initiate Lou-Anne to the joys of snorkelling in crystalline, albeit crispy cold, waters.

We then changed atmospheres and relocated to Mandraki for a night to visit Rhodes old town from the comfort of a port, with hot showers and all, before heading to colourful Symi. We had a pleasant downwind sail in the morning, ending with some challenging currents in the Seskli strait, where Obelix’ speed exceeded 7 knots, and a sporty arrival in Panormitis where the weather had turned stormy, a baptism of fire of sorts for Lou-Anne who had never cruised before.

The stay in Symi was a mixed bag of grey sky and rain, and sizzling sun but it didn’t deter us from exploring the island extensively between Panormitis, Agios Georgios Dysalona, Pedi and Symi bay. We particularly enjoyed the spectacular fjord-like Agios Georgios Dysalona beach, lined with white pebbles separating the 300m-high cliffs from the inviting turquoise water and took great pleasure in shooting loads of pictures in the cobblestoned streets of Pedi and Symi villages.

Our guests’ stay ended with some memorable return to Rhodes, confronting our fears of heights on the 7m-high diving board at Elli beach, Zephyr’s heroic rescue of a drowning cat with a fishing net, and a dinner at an old town Taverna followed by an ice cream at Da Vinci gelateria and its decadent Nutella fountain.

What a week, and what a pleasure to watch the three cousins swim, skim stones, eat ice creams, tame cats, imitate peacocks, marvel at the souvenirs shop, chat and laugh together, making up for lost time after nearly five years apart!

4 comments

  1. Dear Salome and Thomas, Your last blogs have been absolutely fabulous again, the pictures great and Salome’s writing brilliant and so descriptive. You should get a prize for this! Have a great trip through the Med, I am looking forward to reading more about it. Bisous to all of you, Dorte ________________________________

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    • Thank you Dorte for your kind comments. It definitely helps to receive nice feedback to keep writing about our adventures. We’ve been very lucky in Greece with ideal conditions for both sailing and exploring the multiple islands all beautiful and rich in history in their unique way. I am currently writing about Amorgos one of our highlights. So there will be more!

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  2. […] And so, at the end of the day, we shared our favorite moments. One of mine was to have been able to observe, at the same time, thanks to my diving mask held just above the surface of the water and offering me a double vision above and below, my two sons, one diving to the bottom of the sea, the other preparing to jump in from the rock he had climbed to at Cala di Junco in Panarea. I also congratulated myself on having proposed a lunch break at Isola di Basiluzzo, with its transparent water, sheer cliffs and flat rocks, among which Azur had not failed to discover new waterslides for kayaking. For Thomas and Zephyr, for whom the eruptions of Stromboli were number 1, there was also Zephyr’s unhesitating jump from the high cliffs of Cala di Junco, which probably surpassed the diving board at Rhodes. (cf. Cousinhood in Rhodes & Symi) […]

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